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how to use a microblading eyebrow pen | QM Makeup Guide

4/8/2025, 12:00:00 AM

Master the use of a microblading eyebrow pen with professional techniques. This guide covers prep, strokes, shading, and aftercare for flawless, natural-looking brows. Perfect for PMU artists.

# How to Use a Microblading Eyebrow Pen Like a Pro

Microblading eyebrow pens are essential tools for semi-permanent makeup (SPMU) artists. When used correctly, they create natural-looking hair strokes and enhance brow definition. Below, we break down the key steps for optimal results.

Preparing the Skin

- Cleanse: Remove oils and makeup with an alcohol-free cleanser.

- Exfoliate (if needed): Gently buff away dead skin for better pigment retention.

- Numb (optional): Apply a topical anesthetic for client comfort.

- Outline the shape: Use a brow pencil to map the desired shape before inking.

Choosing the Right Pen & Pigment

- Needle type: Fine, single-use cartridges (0.18mm–0.25mm) work best for hair strokes.

- Pigment selection: Match the client’s natural brow color or desired shade.

- Consistency: Use semi-permanent ink (not traditional tattoo ink) for a softer fade.

Technique for Natural Hair Strokes

- Hold the pen at a 45° angle for controlled, feather-light strokes.

- Follow natural brow growth: Mimic the direction of existing hairs.

- Vary stroke length: Short strokes at the front, longer toward the tail.

- Light pressure: Avoid deep penetration to prevent scarring or blowouts.

Shading & Blending

- For ombré effect: Use a slightly thicker needle for soft shading.

- Layer strokes: Build density gradually instead of pressing hard.

- Blend with a damp cotton swab if pigment spreads unevenly.

Aftercare & Touch-Ups

- Apply a healing balm to keep brows moisturized.

- Avoid water, sweat, and makeup for 7–10 days.

- Schedule a touch-up at 4–6 weeks for perfect retention.

Pro Tips for Best Results

✔ Practice on synthetic skin before working on clients.

✔ Work in a well-lit area to see fine details clearly.

✔ Sanitize tools before and after each use to prevent infections.

By mastering these techniques, you’ll achieve crisp, realistic brows every time. For High Quality-quality microblading pens and pigments, explore QM Makeup’s professional-grade supplies.

*Sources: Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP), American Academy of Micropigmentation (AAM).*

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What size of microblading pen should I choose?

Currently, the more popular thicknesses are 0.16mm and 0.18mm; the popular sizes are 16U, 18U, and 18P. How to choose a microblading brow tools that suits you can refer to the advice on choosing a best microblading blade to use, which depends largely on several factors, including the type of eyebrow tattoo, the degree of detail required, and personal tattooing skills. Here are some basic guidelines:

Type of eyebrow tattoo: Detail and line tattoo: Finer lines and details can usually be achieved with finer needles (such as 0.16mm or 0.18mm).

Filling and shading: Slightly thicker needles (such as 0.20mm or 0.25mm) may be required to achieve better color coverage and shading effects on the skin.

Personal tattooing technique: Novice tattoo artists may tend to use thicker needles to minimize the operation time on the skin, while experienced tattoo artists have the flexibility to choose needles of different thicknesses to achieve more diverse effects.

Skin type: The texture and thickness of different skin will also affect the choice of needles. Thicker skin may require slightly thicker needles to ensure color and lines penetrate effectively.

Hair Condition: The thickness of your client’s natural hair is also an important factor in choosing needle thickness. Thicker hair requires slightly thicker needles to ensure lines are consistent with the natural hair.